LALIQUE - Lot 239

LALIQUE Exceptional and probably unique 18k 750-millimeter gold scarf/tie ring centered on an ogival cabochon of closed-set peridot supporting two confronted bats with enameled wings, one lime green, the other fir green. The openwork ring centers a woodpecker. Signed LALIQUE on the edge. (French master mark normally missing.) Width : 28mm - Height : 12mm Ring depth 13mm Gross weight : 7,58 g Expert's note: Fauna and flora figured prominently in René Lalique's artistic repertoire in the early 20th century. Whether enameled or set, his jewelry productions are emblematic of the Art Nouveau style and are sought after the world over. Our jewel, belonging to the collection of a leading figure from the town that saw the emergence of Art Nouveau in France, is in remarkable condition and is being presented for the first time at a public auction, generally open to the general public. Used as a scarf jewel or to tie a tie or lavaliere, this one is adorned with two enamelled bats, symbols of Sapphic lovemaking at the time. The most important known example is Natalie Clifford Barney's jewelry collection, currently housed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris (MAD). It shows how jewelry was used to express feelings (hidden or not) with symbols known only to the initiated. The jewel we are pleased to present to you is of museum-quality, as much for its perfect condition as for its technical and artistic composition, its limpid provenance and the subtle expression between a major artistic movement of the 20th century and once-hidden loves. https://madparis.fr/les-bijoux-de-natalie-clifford-barney Bibliography : Our scarf/tie jewel is related to a hair comb presented at the 1900 Paris World's Fair and reproduced in the book "Art Nouveau Designers at The Paris Salons. 1895 - 1914 (volume II - Designers L to W)" by Alistair Duncan, published by Antique Collectors' Club in 1994.